Day 9. Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis 14 miles

Its wrong to keep making comparisons between my other Camino and this one, but it’s hard not to. This does not feel so much like a pilgrimage. Although it is in fact the ‘true’ Camino as in the route St James’s body took on its way to its final resting place in Santiago de Compostela, it doesn’t feel like a religious or spiritual journey in quite the same way. There is an annoying group of Italians who walk with music blaring out of speakers on their rucksacks. There are 12 people from a writing club who stop every few kilometres to get out their journals. People are hopping in and out of taxis left right and centre, and the people carrying their packs are very much in the minority. Most people, including Anna are walking wounded, a large number of sandals appearing as people give up on their boots and opt for anything to help with the blisters. We met a girl yesterday who had walked 2 miles in flip flops!

i think that people are somehow less prepared, they think they are just walking for a couple of weeks. Having said that, we weren’t prepared for the heat and all the cobbles which are largely responsible for the plethora of foot problems. Apart from my little blister on day one, I have escaped unscathed 🤞🏼

There is much less flexibility for stopping outside the obvious stop points which are all in large towns, we were going to try and make up an extra day so we could walk to Finisterre, and we just couldn’t find places to stay. There are also many less churches particularly in the smaller villages.

Today, although only a short day, felt like an effort. It was cold and grey when we left, and neither of us slept very well, every little ache felt amplified and the earphones went in early on. As I know he is reading this I want to thank my dear friend Cal from my first Camino who sent me 3 CD’s of music which went on my phone as a playlist called Cal’s Camino and kept me going all day.

Just when Anna and I were moaning about our aches and pains, we passed a dwarf woman. I have no idea how far she was walking but it shut Anna and I up pretty quickly, she was taking two strides to every one of ours and she was amazing.

We are ensconced in yet another bunk room. There are only 2 bunks so 4 people. There is evidence that there is someone in the bunk above me, but as yet no sign, we are trying to decide if the boots on the windowsill are male or female. I think definitely male. I’ll let you know tomorrow….

Bridge out of Pontevedra

This made me feel like I was in a scene from the Walking Dead

Many more Pilgrims on the road now

Not far to go

3 thoughts on “Day 9. Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis 14 miles”

  1. As the Coastal and Central have now met up for you two, I am recognizing many of the places in your pictures. It truly is beautiful. You should see lots more pilgrims as you are within the 100 kilometer “get my compostella distance”. We thought Galicia to be really pretty with lots to see. I was so glad to hear that Anna is powering through her blisters. Wish her well for me. And thanks for the shout out on the music. Keep on keeping on, not so far now. Burn Camino. Cal and Nancy

  2. Loving the blog Jo – the cobbles sound horrendous. Inspired, too, of course to get my boots on…
    Well done – nearly there…
    x

    1. Thanks Dave, cobbles just cause your feet to roll which is what causes people’s little toes to suffer. It’s been amazing, definitely one to add to your list!

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